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Track
and Roadbed Construction |
Technical Pages |
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The Track |
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My garden railway is built with tracks that match
what is called "Gauge 1". The rails are 45 millimetres (about 1.75 inches)
between the rails. This equates to a standard gauge railway's 4 feet 8 1/2
inches, in 1/32 scale. There are a number of brands of track available, in
Canada. I did most of my shopping at
Art Knapp Trains in Surrey,
just south of Vancouver. I settled on using LGB track and switches
(turnouts,[USA] points [UK]) for a number of
reasons, even though it wasn't the least expensive.
Just an aside, when you go shopping for track, remember
there are a lot of different kinds and brands. Rail is described by its
height (Code 250, Code 332). The "code" is just the
height of the rail measured in thousandths of an inch. So, code 250 rail is
.250" tall, or 1/4". Track is also differentiated by scale, that is whether the ties
(sleepers [UK]) are sized and spaced for narrow gauge, metre gauge or standard gauge. You can lay brass,
stainless steel or aluminum. Most garden railways use code 332 standard
gauge brass for its looks, availability and ability to handle all the
various equipment that runs on 45 mm gauge track. More about gauge and scale
some other time.
Anyway, I decided to use LGB brass rail after seeing how it
ages. I know, strange reason, but here's why. After the track sits out in
the weather for awhile it changes colour (oxidizes) LGB turns dark brown,
almost black, just like the big guys steel rails. Most other brands just
stay their bright, shiny brass colour and stainless stays, well, stainless.
I didn't use aluminum as there are concerns about conductivity. Aluminum has
a reputation for oxidizing more quickly than brass, resulting in poor power
transfer between the rail and the locomotives. Obviously that's not a
concern if you are using battery or live steam, but for track power, like
mine, brass seemed to be the best balance of usability and price.
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The two pieces of rail in this picture are about the same
age (3 years). The curve to the left is LGB, the curve to the right is
another brand. |
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Both have served satisfactorily, but you can see that the
LGB has turned dark and rail-like while the other is still brassy. |
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Connecting the Rail
I use track power, control blocks, powered
switches and lots of wire everywhere! The mainline is about 350 feet long
with several passing sidings and yards. At one time, under construction, I
had well over 200 feet operating from one power input. I believe that brass
rail is as good a conductor as is necessary, as long as you make good track
joins and use the longest sections of track that meets your needs. I solder
my joins along the line and use rail clamps at the switches, or where I
think I may need to lift out sections for maintenance, such as my tunnels. I
have used several methods of getting heat to the rails so that solder will
properly create both a mechanical and electrical connection. Some methods
have proven better than others.
Using a small, pinpoint-type butane torch is often recommended. But the
problem is, and what some people don't realize, is that both pieces of
material to be joined have to be hot enough to melt the solder. Getting
enough heat to the rail often results in singed or melted ties! Heating the
connector (fishplate), because it is thin, is quite easy. The rail is much
larger and absorbs a great deal of heat. The very best method would be to
use what is called a 'resistance-solder' device. It's designed to put an
electric current through the very metal you are trying to solder, thereby
heating it up and getting the solder to flow. These units are expensive, as
so many really good tools are. If you intend to scratch-build locos and cars
using brass, the investment maybe worthwhile.
I came up with a similar method using a much less expensive unit. I have a
Weller 200/260 watt soldering gun. It's important to have at least that much
power. I have cut-off the end of the soldering tip and "tinned" the two ends
for good conductivity. I then put one side on the rail-joiner and the other
on the rail and wait for the pieces to heat. It doesn't take very long and
no damage is done to the rail. Of course, the pieces to be joined need to be
properly prepared. I use a small steel brush available in the welding
department at Home Depot and use a lot of solder paste to make sure the join
is clean. It also has to be mechanically tight, so squeeze the joiner in so
that it clamps the rail tightly, if you need to. I've also found that
thinner, electronic solder available from places like Radio Shack or The
Source flows much more easily because it takes less heat away from the join.
(pictures to explain this will be posted!)
Whenever possible, I solder my tracks together on the bench in sections 10
to 15 feet long. Theses sections are then soldered together, in place, as
necessary. Switches are all connected to trackwork using rail-clamps. This
helps in not damaging them when I decide to move something and I use
isolating clamps where it is necessary for block control.
A
method for Soldering Track in Detail
Laying It Down
My track is
laid using a base of 1/4 inch crushed granite that has been put into a 6 to
8 inch wide cut. The base dirt is tamped down and then gravel added and
leveled to rough grade. The track is then leveled for grade
and from side to side using gravel fines. For this, I have been using #2
chicken grit, available from the local feed store. I started using #1 grit,
which is smaller and looks better, but it kept getting washed away in our wet
coast weather! This method is generally called a float. The track 'floats'
in the ballast, just as the full-sized railways do.
In some places, where the track is hidden from view, track is
laid on cedar 1"x4" by 8 foot long sections. The cedar doesn't warp, resists
rot and doesn't let weeds grow between the ties.
A Track Plan of the layout
as it is built as of April 2006
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This page was last updated on
08 Apr 2008. |
 Under Construction - We're working on the Railway
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